Heavenliness - Val d'Aosta, the Alps!

 If you have never been to the Italian side of the Alps, which means taking in the fabulous Val d'Aosta, you have not lived! Culturally Aosta is loaded with ancient history from BC to the beautiful Roman Amphitheater ruins to the Alpine culture and modern day. Everywhere you gaze there are mountains framing your views, the town piazza is crowned with tall glaciers in the background and you can have it all while sipping caffe in the square. I love Val d'Aosta

 

The gastronomic pleasures of this area begin with the infamous Fontina DOP. This is the queen of the alpine meadows, a cheese made from raw milk, fragrant and alive. To be labeled or considered Fontina DOP, it must be made only from cows of the Valdostana breed that forage on local grasses and meadows. This is the cheese that gave birth, to la fonduta (fondue). It was from this awesome fonduta, that was transformed into the other versions of fondue in Switzerland. If you want to savor the original, this is where you need to be! Do not forget to try Fromadzo DOP too, another very special cheese of the area, mix of goat and cow's milk. 

This area is also ultra famous for the Lard d'Arnad DOP and the Vallée d'Aoste Jambon de Bosses DOP. The prosciuto was an ancient gift for bishops and archbishops, produced in the city of Saint Rhemy-en-Bosses since the 14th century. The frigid stream of air that would come down to the valleys bordering with Switzerland and the long winter cold coupled with the manual labor of man, helped transform these raw prosciutti into authentic one-of-a-kind pieces. They are aged 12, 18 and 24 months and if you can find this ham, you must try it. 

The lard of Arnad is truly the jewel of the mountain peasant's world. Today it is found in the area for sale where previously, it was very difficult to find because it was the source of substenance during those long harsh and cold winter months. As they say, living in the mountains is about 9 months of frigid cold and 3 months of just cold. So be sure to try ultra thin slices of this served on warm crusty pieces of bread; this is something you will come back for time and again. 

A few of the brands assuring you of quality and origin are Saveurs du Val D'Aoste as well as  Alpenzu. Alpenzu is another group of the Val d'Aosta guaranteeing the origin of the products sold. While at the hotel, we were lucky to taste chestnuts in honey as part of an appetizer and while shopping we stumbled on le tegole, famous cookies of the area, another must-try!  

While traveling make sure you do the castles of the region, they are fantastic!    

Oh WOW, Val d'Aosta - Paradise Unveiled!

Just got back from a quick trip to the Val d'Aosta, and man do I have some great information for you! How can anyone not be amazed at those Alps, the Roman history of Aosta itself and the ancient door/arch to the city built 25 BC...
So hold on to your knickers because I have lots to share.  :-)

Etruscan pasta - Simple and Honest Cooking!

This has been the month of chocolate mousse for some reason of course I am super cheating because I have found a 2 minute package from Lindt! These are amazing and come in two if not three flavors...cannot remember (brain fart again). All you add is milk and whip (no, not me even though I have been very remiss lately with my recipes and cooking).:-)

As the hot season approaches, the desire for fresh and cool is right up there with finding a way to pay off all debt in one's life ;-) and last week I tried out an old Etruscan recipe and had to wing it.  This is not a cold pasta sauce but it is SUPER simple. All you need is fresh mint, walnuts, garlic, olive oil and the real thing, parmigiano reggiano or grana padana.

For all you seasoned cooks, you just have to guess on the portions. I used quantities I would use for two people making garlic, parsley and oil pasta.

Choose a long pasta, linguini, spaghettini, pici, spaghetti, etc.


For two:
15 - 20 leaves of fresh mint approx.
2-4 cloves garlic depending on tastes
ultra finely chopped walnuts about (4 whole ones)
olive oil extra V, enough to make a sauce to cover the pasta.

Crush the garlic into the oil and begin to saute very slowly.  Finely chop the mint and add to oil mixture and saute about one minute on very low heat take off the heat.


Cook the pasta in salted water, (must use some salt in the cooking otherwise pasta is just flavorless with the sauces).  When al dente, drain and quickly toss into the pan of garlic, oil and mint that you will have deftly put back on the fire just seconds before draining the pasta. Saute high for 2 minutes or less tossing the walnuts into the sautee mix.


Serve in warm bowls and garnish with the parmigiano. Serve with a fabulous frizzy white summer wine from the Veneto region or even a Prosecco would do well with this. Buon appetito!

Canederli ai Finferli – Chanterelle Dumplings

Classic dumplings from the Veneto Alpine regions with rustic yellow chanterelle mushrooms gathered from the woods of these areas. Since we are in the fall season, it is a good time to make these soul-warming dumplings using ingredients gathered locally and produced in the region.

Canederli ai Finferli (Cantharellus cibarius Fr.) otherwise known in the states as, chanterelle mushrooms. Other names in Italy are gallinaccio, galletto, gialletto, finferlo o garitula. This mushroom is used in just about any way imaginable and is great preserved under vinegar or dried.

Prep time 25 min
Cook time 30 min
Difficulty: Medium

300 gr of day old or more, white bread (NOT Wonder Bread!)
80 gr of fresh mu
25 gr onion
15 gr fresh Italian parsley
1 clove garlic
3 eggs
50 gr flour
80 gr butter
80 gr Grana Padana or Parmigiano Reggiano
150 cc vegetable broth
olive oil extra virgin
salt

Finely chop the onion and blond it a tiny bit of butter. Cut the bread into cubes and pour over these the boiling hot milk and let rest for half an hour.

Meanwhile, clean the mushrooms, cut them into medium pieces and sauté in a pan with oil and a small clove of garlic that has been lightly squished for about 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and salt to taste.

Add the chanterelle mushrooms to the bread, and then add the eggs, the flour, a portion of the grated cheese and the chopped parsley. Mix well and form medium sized balls (large meatballs). Cook them in the vegetable broth for 10-15 minutes, drain and arrange them on a plate and dress with a walnut size of butter and cheese.

Normally canederli are served in broth but with the mushrooms these are better eaten alone. Regular canederli are served in boiling hot broth and dressed with cheese, the preferred dish when shushing the slopes above Trento; Madonna di Campiglio and Cortina (hell all I need is cold weather to get me in the mood for homemade broth and dumplings).

The Real One-and- Only Spaghetti alle Vongole (bianco)

For those who wish to taste the authentic spaghetti with clams, this is the one folks; a never fail (unless the quality of the clams sucks), people pleaser and impression maker.
You may use spaghetti or spaghettini depending on one’s preference. Canned clams may be used but do not expect to have that fresh seafood flavor.

You will need:

350 gr spaghetti
1 kilo of clams or 200 gr of frozen or canned clams “al natural”
1 or 2 cloves of garlic depending on size
1 bunch of Italian parsley
dash of hot pepper (chili pepper)
Olive oil extra virgin preferably Tuscan
Salt
White wine


Soak the clams in fresh water for about 1 to 2 hours, changing the water at least 3 times during this period. Divide the amount of clams into half, half you will extract the meat out of and throw the shells away, the other half you will leave steamed open with the meat inside. After steaming, strain the clam water and set aside.
Take ¼ of the clam meat extracted and finely chop it as well as half the bunch of parsley and set aside with the other ¼ clam meat un-chopped.

Using 10 tablespoons of olive oil, sauté in a large wide low pan the finely chopped garlic with the dash or more (depending on tastes although this is not a dish meant to be spicy, just a hint) of chili pepper; as soon as the garlic begins to take on a little bit of color, add ¼ to 1/2 cup of good dry white wine (not vermouth) and let evaporate a bit. Add in a cup of the clam water and boil down until it is reduced a little more.

At this point over a lively flame, add the chopped and whole clam meat and parsley and boil quickly for 30 seconds then turn off the heat. Season to taste with salt. You should have at this point a reasonably liquid mixture.

Proceed with the cooking of the pasta, when al dente or just a tad before, drain and add the pasta to the clam mix, which you will have put back on the flame just before draining the pasta. Turn up the heat and sauté the pasta in the clam mix adding at this point, the clams in their shells; toss and mix for about 1 minute or more, the pasta should soak up some of the liquid. Serve in hot bowls with a garnish of chopped parsley and never ever add cheese to this; fish dishes are never garnished with grated cheese (major faux pas). ;-)

For those of you who like red clam sauce, that recipe will follow shortly.

Secrets from Pastry Chefs “What No One Ever Tells You."

About Chocolate and flour...

Two of the most important things pastry chefs must take into consideration when using chocolate is the amount of coco butter and the percentage. Usually, most chocolates found in supermarkets range from 30 to 40% coco butter and 50 to 75% cocoa mass. The more coco butter in the chocolate the better it is for glazing making it more fluid and more valuable. Clearly the higher the cocoa content (percentage) the bitterer the chocolate will be.

If you look carefully, you will find when the cocoa percentage is high the percentage of coco butter will be high as well because inside the cocoa mass is where a high quantity of coco butter resides. Beware of chocolate not containing coco butter but other ingredients used for the fat content; it is for this reason these other types of “chocolate” do not need mixing when melting.

Flour is another secret of professional pastry chefs. Flour is rated according to the amount of gluten, which is the measure of elasticity and resistance critical for bread making. Flour in Italy is classified into four types: Tipo 00 (7% gluten, used for pastry kitchens), Tipo 0 (9% gluten, best for bread making), Tipo 1 (10% gluten) and Tipo 2 (10% gluten). However this is not enough to understand flour and gluten, one must verify that the gluten quantity is coupled with it’s good qualities; the qualities given by the mills to the flour.
These three indices represent the characteristics of the various flours, these are: W, G and P. W represents the energy absorbed in the deformation expressed in thousands of erg/g of kneaded flour. G indicates the capacity of the flour to swell thereby trapping air. P indicates the maximum resistance against the deformation and is an index of the tenacity of the dough.

The knowledge of these indices gives the flour its bread quality. For example, good bread flour would be as follows: W from 110 to 150 G from 16 to 18 P from 40 to 50
Pastry flour on the contrary, should be as follows: W from 200 a 250 best for cookies W above 400 is best for long fermentation pastries such as panettoni.

Flour should be stable and in equilibrium, meaning all three indices must fall within the average predicted values for the use of that particular flour. In the United States, when buying flour in the stores these values are not listed (although at times some percentages of protein are listed) and sometimes there is not a choice between flour and pastry flour. Over here in Italy, it certainly is fun when you have a friend in the pastry business willing to share some of the ingredients. ;-)

Latte Portoghese with Farm Fresh Eggs (a must)!

Every time I see my favorite "gal," the Bruna Alpina I think of this recipe...

This is a time tested recipe handed down from my Tuscan family ties, a nice and simple variation on custard. I remember this one well because the eggs were always so fresh and the yolks ultra yellow; I can smell it cooking now! Make sure you use an organic orange, wash well.

1 Liter whole milk 5 eggs ultra fresh 10 Tablespoons sugar (baker's sugar or ultra fine sugar) Orange rind Gran Marnier
Boil gently for 20 minutes milk with 5 spoons of sugar and orange peel. Do not let boil over. Cool well.

While cooling, prepare the caramel coating in the molds by placing 4 or 5 tablespoons (depending on the size of the mold) in the bottom with a tablespoon of water. Heat over high heat until the mix melts and bubbles and then continue heating until it begins to color. Take the color (burning if you will) to the point you prefer, which means lighter in flavor or the darker it becomes the heavier the flavor.
Mix 5 tablespoons sugar (or less depending on how sweet you wish this to be) with yolks and Gran Marnier ("season to taste" with this), beat well then add the cooled milk. Lightly beat the whites to mix and add to yolks.
Bake in oven with a pan of water for about 40 – 50 minutes medium oven.

The Real One and Only Tomato Sauce

After spending years in this crazy Italian land, having tasted a genuine home made tomato sauce for pasta, I realized someone needs to clue in those folks on the other side of the "pond" to the exquisite flavors of real tomato sauce. I have found it difficult to find a restaurant serving good "pasta al pomodoro" state-side. The main trick to good sauce is in the tomato so when you can find good Perini, use these!

Heat ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil and in it cook 2 medium onions, sliced, until they are soft and transparent. Add 1 small grated carrot, 1 minced clove of garlic, and 1 teaspoon of minced parsley.

Cook together slowly for 3 minutes, then add 2 pounds of fresh tomatoes, coarsely chopped, salt and pepper, a few celery leaves chopped and several leaves of fresh basil, 1/3 teaspoon dried thyme and ½ cup of meat stock. Simmer the sauce, covered for about 1 and ¼ hours; stir it from time to time.

When it is fairly thick, force it through a fine strainer. This sauce may be used with any dish calling for tomato sauce although best when tossed over pasta. Serves 4-6

Duck Ragu & Bigoli alla Vicentina (Bigoli con L’Arna)

Here is a classic meal and authentic recipe from Vicenza and surrounding towns. I was a die hard Tuscan fanatic until someone helped me see the light and opened up a whole new world of refined Italian fare and over these next months I will try to share the true Veneto region, one so undiscovered (thank God) and pristine; so get your favorite chair ready because this winter will be full of great secrets and recipes and history on this blog.

Time 25 min to prepare
80 min cooking time
Difficulty – medium

400 g of Bigoli (a very thick spaghetti-like pasta) (recipe below)

1 cleaned duck
1 onion
1 clove garlic
White wine (lots, at least half a bottle)
Fresh sage and rosemary
Tomato sauce
Extra virgin olive oil (try to find one from the Garda area)
Salt and pepper

Chop the onion and garlic and saute in a wide pot with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Place the duck on top of this mix, salt and pepper, add a few sage leaves and a branch of rosemary. With the heat high, add the white wine lower heat and cook on a low flame.

When the duck is almost done, remove from the pan and de-bone the little beast, cutting the meat into TINY pieces. Filter the pan juices then put them back into the pan together with the duck meat (do not separate these juices from the fat, this is what gives the pasta all it's flavor and texture). Add a tablespoon or two of tomato sauce that was previously diluted with water and hot broth (from 1/2 liter to a liter of broth) Add salt to taste and finish cooking until the duck is tender.

Meanwhile, cook the bigoli in lots of salted water, drain and place in the hot pan with the duck ragù and quickly sauté together for no more than 2 minutes.
Garnish with Grana Padano or Grana Trentino

Homemade Bigoli
500 g white flour
50 g butter
4 eggs
Milk
Salt
Pour flour on to working surface; make a crater in the center. Add the softened butter to the crater, the eggs and a pinch of salt. Work together adding a little bit of milk as needed to obtain solid dough. You will need a “bigolaro” to cut this pasta making the necessary form. If you cannot find one, use a fat spaghetti cut. Spread the bigoli out on a floured kitchen towel and let dry before cooking.

Cinnamon Sugar Gnocchi

For a change of pace, try these classic gnocchi from the mountain regions of Veneto. Best wine to accompany these would be a Colle Berici Sauvignon.

This takes a while to make if you plan on making them true to nature from your own potato mix. The gnocchi recipe will be given below following the cinnamon recipe.

For 6
180 g (6 oz) butter
2 tablespoons cinnamon
2 tablespoons sugar (baker’s sugar or caster sugar suggested)
Grana Padano or Parmigiano freshly grated, (not over aged you do not want the cheese to over power the condiments)
Salt

Cook the gnocchi in a large pot of salted water and when they float to the top, let them cook for a few more seconds then drain with a slotted spoon. Mix them piping hot with the softened butter sprinkling them with the premixed cinnamon, sugar and cheese. Serve in hot bowls.

Potato Gnocchi

1 kg of potatoes (boiling potatoes)
3 egg yolks
300 g flour (10.5 oz)
Nutmeg
50 g (2oz) Grana Padano or Parmigiano freshly grated
Salt and pepper

Boil the potatoes with their skins on in salted water. Peel and mash them with a masher by hand (Do not use a Cuisinart) or use a potato squeezer (schiacciapatate in Italy) while potatoes are STILL hot, let cool.

Place the cooled purée on a working surface. With your hands, work in to this the egg yolks, salt, pepper and nutmeg as well as the cheese. Work the dough until it is creamy and smooth, then add the flour all at once and quickly work it into the dough. This must happen quickly in order to prevent the potatoes from releasing more moisture into the dough. To form the gnocchi hand roll pieces of the mixture into fat bread sticks and cut them into half inch or smaller gnocchi. Always cook these in lots of boiling salted water (a large pot).

Intensely Dark-Black (99% cacao) Brownies

This has been a work in progress, re-orchestrating this recipe to work with the chocolate available in Europe. The final result is a dense, succulent, intensely dark, transcendent brownie. If eaten while still warm, the flavors will be deep and rich, utterly delicious! Published in grams.  Today is Sept 30 2012 and I have finally fixed this recipe when using European ingredients and the 99% cocoa chocolate bar.
 
 Clairified butter = 150 gm
50gm  of 99% chocolate.  

 I use Lindt's 99% chocolate bars, they are expensive but the chocolate is ultra fresh. Do not use Baker's squares for this recipe, it has been redesigned to fit only 85-99% cacao chocolate bars not containing emulsifiers, or other fats instead of cocoa butter as filler.

2 eggs beaten with
220 gm sugar

Melt in double boiler, butter and chocolate.
Beat eggs and beat in sugar.

Mix melted butter and chocolate with beaten eggs and sugar.

add 1/2 tsp of salt
1 ½ tsp vanilla
115gms sifted and remeasured pastry flour

Use a square pan 8x8 inches or 20cm x 20cm pan
bake 20 -30 min @350 F or 190 C

The Cradle of Civilization, Italy "La Culla"

What is it about Italy that keeps us coming back for more?

The attraction of Italy for some of us is at times, something difficult to grasp. Italy is more than just a wealth of history; Italy vibrates on a wave all it’s own. The difficulties of everyday life equate to a constant struggle, which aids in a continual daily evolution be it personal or collective. Italians tend to be slobs, there is no denying but in this sloppiness, lies their unique art for living. Italians have style, they are creative by nature, upholders of tradition and religion and beneath this lies the foundation of who they are; by genetic design Italians boast a wealth of humanity for the “other guy.”

Italy is the world leader in so many venues. Italians have “pizzazz” in fashion, not even the French can take a notch off of Italy’s belt in this area. She is a world leader in beautiful cars (Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini, just to note a few), architecture is unparalleled and gastronomically, no one comes close to the variety and simplicity of her kitchen. In fact, the laws and controls posed on the food industry render Italy’s as one of the safest in the world.

Currently, Italian bubbles are consumed just in Italy to the tune of 153 million bottles and she is the number one wine exporter, exporting 10 times as much wine as Australia. Cheese is abundant in numerous varieties, not just goat cheese done twenty different ways. Unfortunately, Italy crashes when it comes to marketing their products; just look at the junk wines sold in the states such as, Fazi Battaglia (great bottle, crap inside). America associates pizza and the mandolin with Italy and this my friends is truly a crime. Italy is so profoundly rich and varied in so many products and areas of life.

Italians live well despite the insurmountable hurdles the government plops in front of each and every person, entity or free enterprise (well if free enterprise really exists in this country). The government makes life extremely difficult and to the tourist eye (a gaze lasting only 10 days for the average tourist) these difficulties are not conspicuous. Sadly politics are always tacked on to everything and this aids in the inability to market the riches of this country.

Here are some sad but interesting numbers; Italians are taxed approximately 54% of their income compared to 30% in many other countries and yet, they manage to not only survive but to do it with decorum and to actually live as well. Think of it this way; from September through December they work for themselves, the rest of the time it is for “lo stato.” This could be accepted if one saw all public services in tiptop form; this obviously is not the case here. The roads suck, the postal service in the post offices is an abomination, public transportation stinks and is overrun with strikes and the taxes paid by the regions in the north, go to pay for the maintenance and mafia of the south in fact, these regions only get 8% back from what they send to Rome. Most of the funds given to the south are used for private gain of a small portion of southerners leaving the rest of the south still as filthy and behind as ever; a ball and chain on the north.

Another huge problem with the lack of progression in this country lies in the job sector; I bet you did not know one cannot be fired from their job? Once you have your position you can just kick back and get your monthly paycheck and, job performance as a measure does not exist (obviously). Sadly this propagates stagnation, crappy customer service and zero incentive within businesses; why work hard to sell when your job does not depend on it? (Duh!)

On top of this, insanely enough, Italy is a police state. Imagine this; driving around to the supermarket, you see the police or Carabinieri car on the side, waving cars down. Why? To find some reason to give you a ticket, to check your “papers.” Can you imagine that happening in the states? Do Americans realize how lucky and free we truly are? Here you are really guilty until proven innocent. Sure the police can pull you over for speeding and such but it seems they never catch the asses speeding 160mph. Nope, just surprise road blocks to see if they can find a reason to give you high blood pressure.

Here is another one to ponder; bars, cafes or restaurants must pay a tax on the music they play in the locale. A disco must file a plan of the songs to be played and then dump a mound of royalty fees into the hands of the SIAE. As you might imagine, the money never goes to the artists. For example, if they play Michael Jackson they pay for that song and that money actually may get to him as royalties but if you are a nobody, you never see the money for the songs played. In fact, this entity has a huge staff with lots of huge offices (gee go figure). Guess all those taxes pay for those twits to man that office. Blank CD’s have a portion of the sale going to this fund as well…cute eh?

Despite all the negatives of which we are reminded daily thanks to the newspapers and TV programs, Italy and her people manage to live making their motto for life that of screwing the government any chance they can and for us outsiders, this can translate into behavior we dislike or do not understand. To skirt having to pay dump fees for small household electronics, you will find these items vicariously placed at auto stops, or behind supermarkets or along the autostrada and viola now you have a dirty, unkempt Italy. Deep down they do not wish to be this way but what choice have you when 54% of your sweat goes to services poorly provided for and on top of that you get to pay another tax when you use the service? Hello!

There is no tax relief for donations either so if I wanted to give new clothes, I buy them and pay the taxes on them as well as being taxed because it was part of my income. Unfortunately for this reason, so many of the old dilapidated villas of Palladian architecture in Veneto near Vicenza are in a state of crumble. Unless someone purchases the property and submits a restoration plan for approval, historical relics will continue to crumble in this amazing cradle of civilization. There is no feasible way to have historical societies because people have to pay taxes on the donations twice over. How sad, such a screwed up system.

In such a small amount of land, Italy has stashed away millions of art objects for no one to see, she cannot manage them because there is not enough money and monies, which could be donated to help enlarge and or support museums, cannot appear due to asinine laws. So here we are attracted to this vibrant, buzzing yet peaceful world and way of life despite the mess. Italians uphold the family and many traditions where as Americans have lost all of this. This frenetic people race through their days, crowding freeways and holidays believing in their time off with the family, the wife or girlfriend; they still believe in a future and sacrifice for these beliefs and this is what gives this place life.

Imagine, in every square kilometer, which would equate to square half mile roughly, the US has 3 people to Italy's 62 people per square kilometer. No wonder I feel claustrophobic here in these apartments and condos stacked upon each other with zero privacy from one's windows. I can just imagine how our current layer of history might look 500 years from now as people excavate finding metros, masses of concrete, a concentration of life in certain areas, what might be the thoughts of these people regarding this layer of humanity…similar to ours as we uncover layers of walls from the Etruscans to Romans and così via?

But alas, I am here and despite days of complete and utter hair pulling, I cannot abandon this cradle of civilization; 3000 years of it, way before civilization came to Great Britain (with all their airs and such). So when you plan a trip to Italy, try to come and spend some time to really live it and savor the life vibrating within. This is what makes her so interesting; close your eyes to the trash, to the shouting matches, to the dirty streets. She has survived for all these years up to now and she will keep on surviving because Italy truly is the cradle of what it takes to live and endure.

Superb Cheese Tarts from the Alps

250gm or 8oz Flour
100gm or 3.5 oz Butter unsalted
1 Egg

Butter and flour the molds diameter of 3 inches 7cms about 12 of them. Cut butter into the flour with a pinch of salt, when crumbly, add 4 Tablespoons water mix quickly and lightly then add egg and mix quickly until homogeneous. Cover and place in refrigerator for 30 minutes. Roll out on a floured board about 3mm (the thinner the better)

Filling 240ml or 8oz heavy cream

The following cheese combinations are recommended:

Swiss Emmenthal (good swiss cheese) and Brie or, Gruyere and Brie or, Fontina and Brie or, Gorgonzola dolce or piccante and Brie or, Gorgonzola and Fontina (a strong combination) or, Stilton and Brie If you are able to find Sbrinz (from Italy) this is a great one as well to combine with either Brie or Fontina

229gm or 8oz of "type one" cheese grated or finely chopped

115gm or 4oz of Brie or Fontina or type number two cheese cut into tiny squares or pieces

100 ml or 3oz Whole milk
3 Egg yolks
Parsley, salt, nutmeg

Cut cheese into cubes trimming crust off of the Brie. Divide the two cheeses evenly and place in the dough lined tart molds.

Combine milk and cream in a bowl, add the yolks mix and beat well. Add fresh grated nutmeg, a teaspoon of chopped parsley and a pinch of salt. Pour the mix into the tarts covering the cubed cheese.

Bake in a preheated oven 190 degrees Celsius or 375 F for about 20 minutes Cool 10 minutes and unmold and serve

Chiusi, Nonna Rosa's, Kamars and the Real Fagioli Toscani

Ceramica Kamars Being such a ceramic fanatic, she wondered why in all the years she had spent near Chiusi, she had never ventured into this Etruscan jewel. Founded in 1958 Kamars takes it’s name from the ancient Etruscan name for the town of Chiusi. They export unique place settings all over the world and provide the tableware for a few of the Etruscan restaurants in the old part of Chiusi (such as, La Solita Zuppa). The artist’s reproductions of antique forms, colors and shapes are a refreshing contrast to the infamous Deruta collections. Everything is hand painted of course, and with his small oven capacity, he produces these wonderful pieces in a very unhurried manner. If you ever have the chance to be in the triangle of this area, Chiusi, Chianciano Terme, Sarteano, stop in to see his wares and have dinner next door at Nonna Rosa’s located in the Hotel Rosati; you will be enormously satisfied.

Nonna Rosa is one of those surprises one does not expect in a “hotel” zone let alone, a three star hotel. This family owned and operated affair offers a step back into the past with wonderful vintage and antique pieces from the 1900’s (to note his collection of Lambrettas).

They are warm and welcoming doing all they can to accommodate needs. Within this environment lies a fabulous restaurant run by the family of course, offering not just local fare, but a creative variation on a theme (the classic Tuscan fare with a flair). The restaurant is decorated in every angle lending the feeling as if in ones own home. There is a wonderful fireplace, sconces rendering soft lighting, candlesticks and candelabras here and there on various tables, chandeliers and lovely drapery not just on the windows. Once the ordering is complete, the time between dishes disappears while studying all the vintage pieces, which in turn, spurn many a conversation as memories related to some of the pieces arise.

Do not be shy when ordering, the portions are not huge and they are fabulous about giving half portions for pasta, you will probably pay for a full one but at least you do not have to throw away half of it. You must have an appetizer (one of their best is the tagliere with pecorino, bruschetta in varying flavors, mini onions, homegrown honey, and fabulous cinta senese cold cuts), a pasta course and main dish. The portion size of the main dish is small and really, just the right size allowing a little bit of room for desert; definitely try their chocolate fondue.

Fagioli Toscani – Simply the Best About Tuscan Cannelini or (White Kidney Beans). Beans must always soak overnight no matter what you read. Before cooking, rinse and add fresh cold water for cooking and do not salt the water until the very end.
For 6 500 gm or 18 oz or 1lb of Cannelini beans 10 Large leaves of Sage, or more if small 20 gm or, a tad less than 1 oz Butter salted 2 Soup spoons of hearty flavored olive oil 2 Soup spoons of tomato sauce Bring the beans to a boil on medium heat, as soon as they begin to boil, turn down low. Cook uncovered until done, not mushy, they need to hold their shape. When done, drain reserving a few spoons of cooking liquid and set aside.

Melt butter and oil together in a large saucepan, (large surface area) When the fats begin to bubble, add the beans the sage either as whole leaves or cut with scissors into three, salt and pepper to taste. Sauté and when almost all the liquid has been absorbed, add the tomato sauce. Stir together well and cook for another two minutes (If the mix seems too dense, add a few spoons of the cooking water from the beans). Serve hot as a side dish, garnished with olive oil and accompanied with crusty bread either plain or toasted and rubbed with garlic.

Compound Butters for Cheap Meat

With these economic times, my kitchen is feeling the pinch so it is time to dig out those standby recipes for compound butters to help flavor the cheaper cuts of meat some of us are having to purchase. My favorites are Bercy Butter, Matre d’hôtel in two versions, Marchand de Vin, Garlic Butter and Paprika Butter. When making these compound butters, allow about ½ ounce per serving and make sure these dollops are placed just before serving o top of the piping-hot meat or fish.

Matre d’hôtel Butter

Cream 4 oz or 113 gm of unsalted butter
Add a teaspoon or a little more of chopped parsley the juice of ½ lemon, salt and pepper to taste. A variation of this is to substitute the parsley with chopped chives for great chive butter.

Bercy Butter

Cook 2 teaspoons of finely chopped shallots in ½ cup of dry white wine until reduced to about ¼ of the original quantity: cool. Cream 4 oz of butter with 2 teaspoons of chopped parsley and the wine-shallot mixture, season with salt and pepper.

Marchand du Vin Butter

This is the same as the Bercy Butter except a good red wine is used instead of white.
Garlic Butter
To avoid too strong a taste, or overpowering, the garlic should be cooked first. Peel 6 cloves of garlic and drop into boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain, cool, and cru sh thoroughly, then cream with ½ cup of butter.

Paprika Butter
Melt 2 oz of butter and in it sauté 2 Tbl of minced onion until light brown. Remove from heat and add 2 tsp of paprika, mix well and let cool. Add 2 oz of creamed butter and cream well together. This may be forced through a fine sieve if desired, great on Veal.

Some other ideas for flavorings are: mustard, chutney, tarragon or other herbs, anchovy paste, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce. An assortment of these butters works well with fondue Bourguignon.

Dirt-Poor Soup

Stealing this recipe from the Piglet, I thought this was appropriate for the times, a dish one could whip up on a budget stretched to the limits. Now with Fiat and Chrysler together, we might be seeing a few more of these in the states besides the Cinquecento clubs and finding replacement parts a tad easier. Gotta love that new 500!

The origin of this peasant soup, from what she garnered via the Piglet, is somewhere on the Spanish continent. Honestly, this is a super easy dish, a great belly warmer and just plain good when using genuine ingredients.

1 liter or quart of chicken, beef or vegetable broth (for one person use half that amount). Old crusty bread (older than a day or two) cubed or just torn into pieces (be sure to use the crumbs as well).

Hearty flavorful extra virgin cold pressed olive oil (Tuscan if you are able).

2-3 cloves garlic cut in half or quartered 1 egg per person Sauté on low bread pieces in plenty of oil with the cut garlic; sauté until the bread is well toasted ad crunchy.

Heath broth to almost boiling turn down when add the eggs).

Lightly beat the eggs in a small bowl as if preparing for an egg drop soup.

Add the eggs to the hot broth while stirring then add the bread, oil and garlic from the sauté.

Serve hot. If desired, may add a dusting of Parmigiano Reggiano (not Kraft!) to make it a bit “richer.”

Weird photo...

Baccalà alla Vicentina...well with some dedication and hard work, this is what these ugly dried corpses become. I have a lot of things to post after spending a few weekends wandering, grappa-ing and wine tasting.

Knock-Your-Socks-Off Bread Pudding Soufflé & Whiskey Sauce

This recipe is a three-step process. The pudding base can be made a day in advance as well as the bourbon sauce.
Phase One: Bread Pudding ¾ cup Caster sugar or baker’s sugar 1 tsp ground cinnamon Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg 3 medium organic eggs 1 Cup heavy cream 1 tsp vanilla 5 cups New Orleans French Bread, in 1 inch cubes 1/3 cup top quality raisins. Currants may be used as well for a smaller raisin if desired.
The bread must be light and tender such as some of the French breads made at the super markets. If it is dense bread, it will soak up all the custard and the pudding portion of the recipe will not work. Baker’s sugar is not in many supermarkets but can be found at Ralph’s, not at Vons and Caster sugar at finer supermarkets such as Whole Foods.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square-baking pan. Combine sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg in a large bowl. Beat the eggs until smooth and then work in the heavy cream. Add the vanilla, then the bread cubes. Allow bread to soak up the custard. Place the raisins in the bottom of the greased pan. Top with the bread/egg mixture. Bake for approximately 25-30 minutes or until the pudding has a golden brown color and is firm to the touch. If a toothpick inserted comes out clean, it is done. The mixture of pudding should be nice and moist, not runny or dry. Cool slightly. Turn out on to a cutting board and gently chop. Leave oven on to 350 degrees.
Phase two: Meringue
9 Medium egg whites
¾ cup baker’s sugar
¼ tsp cream of tartar

Butter six 6oz ramekins or use a large soufflé dish and dust with extra sugar. Beat on low the egg whites and cream of tartar until frothy. Turn up to high and whip until soft peaks form. Slowly add the sugar and beat until stiff and glossy. The egg whites should be completely free of yolk and they will whip better if the chill is off of them. To test them, use a clean spoon; if the whites stand up stiff similar to shaving cream, when you pull the spoon out the meringue is ready. Do not over whip, or the whites will break down and the soufflé will not work.

In another large bowl, take half of the bread pudding and fold into it ¼ of the meringue. Add a portion of this base to each of the ramekins.

Place the remaining bread pudding in the bowl and carefully fold in the rest of the meringue. Spoon to dishes and top off or mound the soufflés to about 1 and ½ inches above rims. Smooth and shape tops with spoon into a dome over the ramekin rim. Bake immediately for approximately 20-25 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and using a spoon, poke a hole in the top of each soufflé and pour the room temperature bourbon sauce inside the soufflés. Serve immediately.

Use about half of the sauce for this and serve the remaining on the side or dress the plates before un-molding.

Phase 3: Bourbon Sauce
1 Cup heavy cream
½ Tbsp cornstarch
1 Tbsp water
3 Tbsp caster or baker’s sugar
1/4 cup excellent bourbon

Place the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a boil. Whisk cornstarch and water together in a small dish and add to the cream while whisking. Bring to a boil while whisking and let simmer for a few seconds, taking care not to burn the mixture on the bottom. Remove from heat. Stir in the sugar and bourbon. Taste to make sure the sauce is sufficiently sweet to taste and with a good bourbon flavor and has a nice thick consistency. Cool to room temperature.

Enjoy!

Pears Nobile like Monet's Haystacks

Poached pears make a pretty dessert plate and are very versatile through the seasons. In winter, their flavor is heightened when accompanied by a good Gorgonzola, toasted bread and walnuts roasted with butter and salt. During the summer, serve with sweetened mascarpone and lemon peel curls.

6 firm pears with stems Juice of 1 lemon 1 Cup (240 mls) excellent red wine ¼ cup (60 mls) sugar ¼ cup (60 mls) currants 1 vanilla bean split 3 or 4 whole cloves Using a vegetable peeler, peel the pears leaving the stems. With a paring knife, cut a small slice off the bottom of the pears and stand them upright in a saucepan. Squeeze lemon juice over them, then pour on the wine and sprinkle with sugar. Add the currants, vanilla bean and cloves to the wine.

Cover and simmer for 20 minutes (or longer depending on the size and ripeness of the pears); do not allow them to become soft. Midway, turn the pears on their sides and baste several times with the wine. Transfer to serving dishes. Pour some wine syrup over each one and garnish.

A small variation on this theme is to leave them whole, unpeeled and set them upright in a baking dish like Monet’s haystacks. Drench them in wine and sugar and slow bake until they are soft and all the wine is absorbed (may take up to 4 or 5 hours, I used to use my wood oven after making bread or a roast and leave them in the oven all night) Serve warm or cold.

Go with Everything Dressing

1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil (for a stronger flavor) or use other type of oil depending on tastes.
¼ cup of red wine vinegar
1 Tablespoon of Dijon mustard
1 clove of garlic pressed
Salt and pepper to taste
½ tsp of sweet basil or Italian herbs or for a different twist Provence mix of herbs.

Combine ingredients in a covered jar and shake to blend. This can be mixed with a hand blender or a whisk noting that using good olive oil will make a nice thick and creamy dressing. For those who like Dijon, add more than one Tbs.