Regional Tuscan Cooking at it's best!

During one of our lightening fast trips to Tuscany for work, we stopped in at a restaurant and locanda we had passed by in the car on numerous occasions but never had the time to stop in. This is a gem, one worth planning your trip around just to immerse yourself in an atmosphere of top notch Tuscan country living.

This is a small locale hosting rooms as well as, the restaurant and being the curious one that I am, we requested to see the rooms; such a nice surprise to find them done tastefullly and with all the amenties one might wish. Granted, it is over the autostrada and very close to the exit so if you plan on staying for a while, it might be noisy but then again, while soggiorning at Hotel Rosati, I never noticed the traffic noise and this hotel is just a few steps away. Great place for an encounter, dinner downstairs and just crawl or race to the room afterwards. Sex, languid, steamy kiss, cozy.

The decor of the dinning room is ultra classic rustic Tuscan tables, with tables out side for the hotter months. This is a wonderful place for a quick meal or for something completely sumptious, slow and satisfying. The waitresses are patient and friendly and the food is cooked to order; (grilled specialties). One of my favorites was the bruschetta done with freshly grilled/roasted tuscan bread (which as you all know is salt free not to detract from the food). If you are dinning with more than two people, order different appetizers and share, the salame, cinta senese products as well as the cinghiale are out of this world and NOT to be missed. Do not expect a wine list, when asked she trotted back with three bottles of red, all Tuscan of course, a Montepulciano Rosso, and two Brunellos and all three super reasonably priced. I just picked one, the Montepulciano red and we were super satisfied with it, a perfect marriage with the meal. Two other "not-to-miss" dishes are the fagioli al fiasco and the ceci both boiled and served piping hot in their own cooking juice and dressed with a splash of fresh pressed olive oil (yes it was November time of the olive harvests). Anything chosen from the grill is fabulous as are the pasta dishes and the deserts are all homemade (did not have room for even a glance at those).

So, next trip to Tuscany or first timers, plan a journey through Chiusi (Etruscan heaven), Sarteano (wonderful tombs to visit), Montepulciano, Perugia, Orvieto and Siena and make base camp here at the Chiusi Chianciano crossroad, (Loc. Querce al Pino) you will save a few pennies as well as find some of the best Tuscan meals to be had. Oh, and do not forget to make a stop off in Pienza at the cheese and salame shops, pick up a finocchiona and salame both made from the Cinta Senese pork...your taste buds will thank you.

La Locanda della Ribollita

Le Strette Barolo Bergeisa 2004 - Divine!

With the cold weather it is definitely time for some of those warm, meditative, ethereal red wines and last night was the first of the season for us. I decided to open a bottle of Barolo purchased over a year and a half ago while touring the wine country of Le Langhe Roero and Monferrato. The repast was risotto con porcini and that was all we needed. The wine when we tasted it at the enoteca regionale di Barolo was beyond impressive at that time (2004 vintage, considered an excellent year) and we only "stole" two bottles of the garnet liquid; how sad because it is worth stocking the cellar with this beauty. We may just have to get in the buggy next week and head over there and partake in a little white truffle (season in Le Langhe is Oct.- Dec.) and buy up, if there is any left, more of this wonderful wine. So, with candles lit for tonight (did not have the heart to finish the bottle last night) we will finish the evening with wafts of cherries, wood and fennel.

If you would like a warm and fragrant Barolo, you must try Le Strette Barolo Bergeisa 2004 as one of these reviews notes, it is truly a Barolo with all the grace and complexity one would expect from the "historical Bergeisa cru of Novello."
le strette winery
www.new canaan wine merchants

California Miles

Exploring her own state is something she has not done much of so, she decided to grab her buggy and head off up the coast of California. She pointed her wheels towards the coastline until she arrived to stop in Santa Barbara and sip wine at the Harbor House as the late March fog swirled in around her.

Wandering up and down State Street in the heart of a lovely town, she wished she had a buddy with her to stop and eat at just about every wine bar and eatery there. As the fog really moved in, she decided to head out to Solvang for a little tour of the place one she had not revisited for over 25 years. Upon arrival she was truly surprised to see how much the town had changed over the years all except the Abelskievers. After a really fast tour and a jaunt through the farmer's market for a bag of fresh cherries and bucket of cookies she jumped back in the car and left for San Luis Obispo to spend the night at the Madonna Inn.

Reading some of the print material, she was fascinated to learn how Alex Madonna was such a good friend with William Randolf Hearst and how the two of them, with their dreams, created two masterpieces in their own rights. They both loved craftsmanship and quality and there seemed to be no end to their dreams. After a funky dinner in the pink restaurant, laden with photos of old Hollywood stars with the Madonna family, she headed back to explore the nuances of her funky room.

Clearly, the next day she was destined to visit Hearst's Castle and from one who has lived in Europe for over 10 years, living with, among and around villas, castles and palaces, this was enthralling, overwhelming, and humbling all at once. His vision, which he changed ad infinitum, was a mental work-out particularly when one can practically “feel” his vision, his dream and experience his efforts in every corner, in every piece of furniture, Della Robbia and gads of other antiques. Such fun it must have been for him! She almost envied that kind of power to create without limits.

OK, so onward and "upwards" in the buggy towards Big Sur. Nepenthe http://www.nepenthebigsur.com was her late lunch stop. Anyone ever been there? Spectacular vistas, architecture and a luscious Bordeaux! '99 Pichon Lalande, from Pauillac coupled with artisan cheeses of California. She was in heaven! Contrary to her habit of wanting more wine, she savored this glass over an hour, feeling it wash over her velvety in texture, reveling in the deep purple ruby color and knowing she would never be able to find a bottle of this once home. Ha, thanks to her favorite wine merchants...she found her paradise after returning hom. http://klwine.com

Off again, towards Carmel for a lightening fast "look" and then a late arrival into San Francisco for a night on the wharf. Always her favorite place to be anytime of the year! Those crab cocktails from the street vendors...! Later, in the room, she quietly planned the winery stops for the next day through Napa Valley.

The next day she flew through the wineries buying up a car load of "bottles full of grapes" and then headed out for a stop in Reno so she could spend the last night in another one of her regeneration spots, Mammoth Lakes...a small spot of tranquility this time of the year. The skiers were still there but just barely so the town was quiet and cozy. http://www.mammothlakes.com

Out and About in the Veneto

Casa del Parmigiano is a must see while traveling through Marostica, check out their site. Next to this shop is the Casa del Café where you may have a macchiatone that will knock your taste buds for a ride. A macchiatone is an espresso with a bit more steamed milk than just a caffè macchiato (or colored with a dash of milk and a teaspoon of froth); the coffee used here is a genuine treat. Next to these two shops is a good bar/coffee house where one may sit outside on the piazza and soak up the view with Illy coffee and fabulous pastries from the local pastry shop just a few minutes from the bar. Where to eat. There is also a incredibly quaint hotel not far from these three spots, Albergo Due Mori; nestled within the “land of grappa”, this modest hotel is a tiny distillation of emotions.


For those who wish to dine in history, a must-do is the Ristorante al Castello Superiore. High above the town of Marostica is a wonderful taste treat as well as, one for the eyes. Be sure when driving there to take a small car otherwise you cannot make the sharp turn up the castle drive to park above near the water well.

This restaurant makes one of the best Baccalà alla Vicentina I have ever had although the polenta is not true in presentation as it should be, the dish is still an authentic delight. Be prepared for a well stocked cellar with prices to match.

Tecnorati

Dinning at Grinzane Cavour Castle

Dinning at the Castello Grinzane is a must for anyone who would like to re-live a little bit of history in modern elegance. Reservations are a smart thing and required to even get near the place in October and part of November (white truffle season). The auction for the largest of these beauties usually occurs at the castle annually and hosts a multitude of VIPs who populate the town of Alba as well. There is a quaint and convenient hotel, Casa Pavesi just meters from the castle offering unique room décor, breakfast on the terrace, bar and cozy reading rooms.

The dinning room at Grinzane Castello is not only an elegant atmosphere but the service is professional and discrete. High heels beware walking up to the castle, if one parks below it can be a wicked challenge on the rounded rock road as well as, taking the path towards the entrance and the uneven floors and steps once inside. This place was meant for climbing and sensible shoes plus, getting to the bathroom or better said, navigating the steps to the bathroom after a few glasses of wine can be an issue, especially when you really need to go. ;-)

While gazing up and through the windows from inside, over the expanse of the vineyard-clad hills beyond, she could not help but breathe a little bit of the history within these walls.


Dinner consisted of tagliolini with sausage ragù (sausage from the Roero region) a bottle of lively Barbera, hand-rolled bread sticks and a main course of Brasato al Barolo. Brasato is one of the ultra famous dishes from this area and is truly a must-try. The meat is soaked in Barolo wine, cloves, juniper berries and garlic for 12-24 hours then removed from that marinade and slow baked for 1½ in fresh Barolo but not before performing a sauté of carrot, celery and onions, browning the meat and then bathing it in Barolo.

After all that food no one needed dessert but they insisted with a few complimentary cookies and of course we did have to imbibe in an outstanding grappa! The waiter brought the bottle to the table after we told him a little bit about our taste preferences; he suggested this one and poured two generous glasses offering us, on his wallet, a second. God, a second glass would have done this little lady in, she would have needed a stretcher to get down the stairs.

While seated outside on the benches in the gardens encircling the castle, the night air was cool (blissfully) and the night birds extremely busy. Something came whizzing by her head at a speed so fast her hair flew up and her ears were buzzing from the speed with which this creature flew. Who knows what it was, certainly not an owl of any sort and not a bat. The lights across the valley to the other hill town were mesmerizing and suggestive, music floated up from the tent party near the hotel, laughter and the clink of glasses while toasting; all elements adding to the ambience rendering the experience even more suggestive for a creative mind. The past oozed around us with the pride of the people of the town for the place they live and for the traditions they protect. Romance, romantic dinning, sensuous, warm, sexy, suggestive, hot, steamy, languid, escorts, red roses, venetian mask, antiquity

Food Frolicking & Travel at Singing Nella's - Wine Country Barolo

La Cantinella (Canti – Nella i.e., singing Nella) was the Osteria just across the way from the old café behind and below the Barolo castle. This fun little place allowed the option of eating inside with AC or outside in the heat but in the shade of the buildings above the restaurant as well as their huge umbrellas.

Seated outside her eyes roamed from the bright yellow-orange of the Marchesi di Barolo cellars to the wine-covered hills above, the Barolo Castle and the barren parking lot in front. Melting in the heat but reveling in the scenery her mind floated from the suggestions of modern times to visions of the past. In some ways things have changed so much yet when immersed in these towns, one sees how little life really has changed, at least here drifting between the vineyards.

Lunch offered typical Piedmont dishes such as, raw hand cut and pounded Piemontese beef as an appetizer (do not shy away from this, raw meat is excellent for the body). A plate of mixed appetizers displayed Russian salad, raw meat, zucchini frittata with fondue alla Piemontese (the original fondue from Val D’Osta) and, bagna cauda, which was a big slice of blanched red pepper with green garlic sauce floating inside. Bagna cauda is famous in this region and the sauce is something you want to be sure to eat together if you are going home with your dinner partner because the garlic breath could kill a horse! (laughing, think I killed the Piglet)

The sauce is made from mashed garlic, lots of it, anchovies and olive oil (of course); the whole mix heated over a double boiler or at times served over a candle with raw veggies or served as it was that day on the pepper slices although not raw but just blanched. The fondue is another thing in and of itself!
This original fondue is prepared with Fontina, eggs, butter and milk and is a dense liquid (the cheese soaks in the milk for at least 8 hours if not longer). The milk is then tossed and the cheese is melted with fresh milk and a ton of butter and once it begins to thicken, an egg yolk or two is tossed in. Of course, this is best consumed with white truffles but hey, eating it by the spoonfuls is still a thrill and in the winter, this is a dish that outshines any cold day! So, while you all are putting kirsch in your fondues, just know that until you have tried the original here in northern Italy, you are missing out. ;-)

The rest of the meal consisted of agnolotti in butter and sage and risotto al Barolo, which is truly a local dish (just onions and wine)! They also served fresh homemade, hot bread infused with tons of oregano in a bread loaf form as well as a focaccia so her goal of limiting the bread intake that day went to the dogs! In that heat, no wine was ordered with lunch but then again, with all the little wine tasting who needed it (giggling)? To finish off the meal, a stop at the Antico Panettiere furnished a bag of local cookies or little fragile flat hazelnut “pancakes.” These contain the locally grown Piemontese hazelnuts and nice soft Amaretti cookies as well. ;-)

How can she emphasize enough the extent of excitement and depth of smiles this area can produce? To breathe-in this wine country one realizes this is not just about wine but about the substantial amount of history surrounding these great wines through the centuries. The vast amount of neat, well-cured vineyards will tantalize the dreams and emotions of any countryside lover; an unadulterated lullaby for all the senses. These hills undulate with history and passion at every turn and everywhere the eye might rest; one cannot help but get caught up in the spell. Speaking of spells, dinner at the Grinzane Cavour Castle is worth a separate post. To be continued…. ;-)

Alba & La Piola - Food & Wine Adventure

Wandering the infamous town of white truffles and fabulous wines, she realized she had a one-way ticket to paradise, Alba in the province of Cuneo. In the historic center, exists a great eatery called la Piola.

Across from the Chiesa di S. Giovanni or, il Duomo there is this simple and elegant little place to eat under the old portico. They have also placed a permanent “greenhouse” for dinning right on the piazza; this little glass house is fully enclosed with air conditioning and in the summer heat, it is a blessing to sit there and enjoy the view, eat and stay cool. The tables are set up with huge, fun and colorful charger plates with ultra comfortable chairs to rest in (such a rarity in Italy, and a change from the classic Osteria chair).

The menu offers excellent dishes typical to the region with nice, courteous waitresses and waiters serving everything very promptly. For starters, an assorted cheese plate was a must just to sample the local cheese creations as well as a fabulous insalata russa. Tagliolini with an oil and garlic or “white” sauce of ground rabbit dressed this homemade pasta, which was out of this world! There were also agnolotti made with a mix from a roast of various meats and these were dressed in the sauce of the roast, something Snow White had never tasted before in all her days in Italy. The sauce was limpid gravy per se, light in weight and exquisite in flavor. The agnolotti are a type of tortellini except the ends are brought together at the center of the “cushion” and pressed together. Some other versions of these wonderful homemade agnolotti are with the ends pulled together similar to a sack as if tied with string at the top. All this fare was accompanied by a nice chilled white Roero Arneis another great white wine produced in the Roero hills above the river Tanaro; and since this was gastronomic play-time, dessert was a must, which was accompanied with a wonderful Moscato d’Asti by, none other than the Piglet’s favorite, I Vignaioli di S. Stefano. Dessert was the classic Bunet; a type of chocolate pudding with crushed amaretti.

Now these little pigs will be off for some other adventure shortly so stay tuned...

Vignaioli Santo Stefano Wine Travel Adventure

Beneath the shadow of the Barolo Castle, lunch awaited. After a nice espresso at the Old Café next to the Osteria where we eventually had lunch (in 86 degree heat and a nice 60% humidity), we made a not-so-quick stop in the regional wine shop to peruse the Barolos of the area. This lovely little wine haven is under the Castello di Barolo offering tasting and education. That day there were three types of Barolo to be sipped the first coming from different soil than the classic Barolo and this one was very light in color and depth as well as flavor. The second one was a finely blended version of Barolo, one of the modernists versions and very warm and soft on the tongue. This was a nicely balanced wine (very ready for consumption). The last one was a classic or traditionalist Barolo and was very dark in color and of course, had deeper tannins thus not as smooth to the palate.

For these two “pigs”, the balanced modernist version was destined for their wine cellar (costing, mind you, a lot more than the classic version), this wine was from Bergera Pezzole, labeled as Le Strette 2004, estate bottled. Happy as a clam with two bottles in her possession, they pointed their toes towards Belbo on a hunt for i Vignaioli di Santo Stefano. With a few stops here and there to ask directions, they wound up falling into the large cellars of Vallebelbo and while there, decided to stock up on the classics; Asti, Moscato and Brachetto (gotta LOVE that cherry red color with frizz)! While there, directions to “the boys” (i Vignaioli) were obtained and as heavily loaded as the mini mouse car was, they headed to the hills!

I Vignaioli di Santo Stefano are in a locale of Santo Stefano Belbo; way, way up top to the crown of the hills. Numerous switchbacks greet you on a road big enough for one car or a tractor as it winds up, up and away. Vineyards on steep slopes covered both sides of the old mule road; “Good lord” she thought, “How in the world do they harvest on these slopes, let alone work the vineyards daily without losing it?” Just as that thought crosses her mind while approaching the cellar drive, a weary, sweat-drenched soul pops out of the brush with his weed whacker and mask, leaving behind him a steep hill of vines. She does not want to know the cost of the wine because she realizes the price no matter what it is, is worth it; what kind of crazy fool works on slopes so steep their legs at the end of the day must ache from the effort to stay upright? Watching the scene before her she realizes few wineries in Napa Valley are anything close to the difficulty of these vineyards.

This stop was for a Moscato Golden Piglet had been searching out for, for quite a while. He quickly purchased a case (the heat was killing us all) of their elegant, long-necked bottles of frizzy, sweet, golden colored Moscato d’Asti. Looking at these bottles she realized this was a first, she had never before seen a wine with bubbles in anything but the classic champagne-type bottle. Moscato runs at 5.5% vol making this an easy aperitif or desert wine. While packing the box into the “mouse on wheels,” the young wine keeper gave them a bottle of their more expensive Moscato Passito 2002, labeled “Il” to test out. Next trip they can go back during the cooler weather and buy up a few of the Passito and really enjoy the heady pleasures of Moscato.

There was also a stop to the Mango Castello and wine shop to test out the Moscato on display. As it turned out a case of another wonderful delectable sweet/dry wine headed to their cellars. This was from the hills of Mango known for its Moscato. This one was labeled Tintero Moscato d’Asti, D.O.C.G., Sori’ Gramella 2007, 5% vol. and this ones goes down like silk! ;-)

Lastly but definitely not least, she must mention the grappa purchased at Grinzane. Never before had she tasted anything in the grappa department as divine as this amber colored ambrosia! This was called “Elisì” from the wonderful distillery, Berta, check out the link regarding the history of this four generation family in the distillation business!

This particular grappa is made up of 50% Barbera 1996, 25% Nebbiolo da Barolo 1999, 25% Cabernet 2001. The French Barriques are 225 liters of Troncais d’Allier, with a finished product at 43% vol. with a beautiful amber color.
Elisì is the result of careful selection of the best grappa products, refined for the last 10 years in those French barriques. Assembly of the different years and various grape varieties, bestow the elegance, complexity of aromas and emotions to this grappa that only the great, distilled liquors of the world can transmit.

Historic Barolo Wine

Barolo is produced from the Nebbiolo grapes although the Lampia, Michet and Rosé types are authorized for this wine as well. Barolo matures at the end of September (well as long as our weather and climate does not change much more), and the clusters are a dark blue/grayish color covered with their own wax. Barolo typically smells of tar and roses, and is capable of taking on an unusual orange tinge with age; the initial nose of a Barolo is often that of a pine tree. When subjected to aging of at least five years, the wine can then be labeled as a Reserve and for connoisseurs, it is Italy's most collected wine; for beginners it is a difficult one to understand.

In the past all Barolos used to be very tannic and they took more than 10 years to soften up. The fermenting wine usually stayed on the skins for at least three weeks, extracting huge amounts of tannins; then it was aged in large, wooden casks for years.

In order to meet the international taste, which preferred fruitier, more accessible styles, the "modernists" cut fermentation times to a maximum of ten days and put the wine in new French barriques. The results, according to traditionalists, were not even recognizable as Barolo and tasted more of new oak than of wine. Thus, the Barolo wars began between traditionalists and modernists.

Today, the war has subsided although outspoken modernists are still committed to new oak and there are many producers who are now choosing the middle ground, often using a combination of barriques and large casks. The more prestigious houses still reject barriques and insist on patience for their wines (considering them far superior). As such, these have become auction staples, sought after by wine aficionados in Italy, Germany, Japan, Switzerland and the United States.

For those of you who are interested, here is a list of the wineries producing in the traditional methods as well as, the modernists (note from previous post on Barolo Chinato, we purchased one from Ceretto, loving the balanced flavors of that liquid luxury).

Traditionalist producers include: Giuseppe Rinaldi, Marcarini, Bartolo Mascarello, Brovia, Giuseppe Mascarello, Cavallotto, Giacomo Conterno, Giacomo Borgogno, Paolo Conterno, Comm. Burlotto, Oddero, Barale, Cavallotto, Cappellano, Massolino, Bruno "the Maestro" Giacosa, Luigi Pira, Vietti (especially the Riserva Villero), Vajra.

Modernist producers include: Azelia, Scavino, Gigi Rosso, Rivetti, Ceretto, Aldo Conterno (from 1996 onwards), Boglietti, Mauro Veglio, Altare, Sandrone, Domenico Clerico, E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis), Einaudi, Icardi, Parusso, Prunotto, Ceretto, Corino, Alessandria, Grimaldi, Silvio Grasso, Seghesio (Aldo e Ricardo).

Gaia was not mentioned because this ultra famous winery deserves a separate post.

Wine Country Piemontese - Definitely a Wine Frolic

A trip through the Piemontese wine country, le Lange e Roero is a sight to behold. The stops for this tour were Grinzane Cavour castle and regional wine store, Mango (hills of Moscato) and their regional wine store, Barolo and it’s regional wine shop with an off the track stop at i Vignaioli di S. Stefano and the cantine di Vallebelbo.
Grinzane offers a great little self guided tour of the castle, which includes the history of Le Langhe and after that there is a cute little bar for coffee and a book, a restaurant for suggestive dinners and a super-duper wine shop!

The storekeeper was wonderful allowing us to taste (without paying) three types of Barolo Chinato, and various grappa. Of the two Chinato, we preferred the drier one so on that note, she gave us a taste of one by Ceretto and what a great suggestion that was! Barolo Chinato is a splendid, unique digestive and dessert wine.

This little known beauty goes back close to the end of the 1800’s to the heart of the Barolo territory. The drink stems from an ancient recipe, which has been carefully preserved through the centuries. The infusion of China Calissaya bark and several aromatic alpine herbs with aged Barolo wine has long been considered a remedy for several diseases. Aged for quite a long time in oak barrels, this aromatic wine becomes a low-alcoholic "elixir", amber-colored and with ruby-red reflections. The spicy, intense and persistent nose coupled with the bittersweet taste of the China bark make it a lovely and inviting wine. A rare specialty for connoisseurs!

Granted, Barolo Chinato debuted as a medicinal wine but quickly found popularity for reasons other than medicinal. Production of this wine comprises a natural infusion of China Calissaja bark, rhubarb root, and about ten other aromatic herbs where the alcoholic content is deliberately kept low in order to highlight the wine’s Barolo component,

Colour: Deep garnet red. Bouquet: Full, rich, heady, and opulent, exuding spices and aromatic herbs. Palate: Sweet, full-bodied, velvet-smooth, pleasantly bitterish in the finish.
Grape variety: 100% nebbiolo Alcohol: 16.5 % vol. Residual sugar: 18% Serving temperature: 18 – 20° C.

Cesare Pavese’s book “Il Diavolo sulle Colline” was chosen to represent the wine’s magnificent sensory complexity, its power, its aromatic pleasures, as well as its profound relationship to the land from which it originated. The Barolo base wine for the “Il Diavolo sulle Colline” Chinato is produced from grapes from the comuni of Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga d’Alba, and Monforte d’Alba, which yield Barolos of pronounced character and structure, to which are added others from the areas of Barolo, La Morra and Verduno, rendering wines of greater fragrance and elegance. After a 20-day, 30oC maceration, the wine goes into the traditional oak casks where it matures for at least two years.

There are diverse and excellent ways to serve this wine: mixed with mineral water and ice, as an aperitif; neat, as a delicate after-dinner liqueur; or warmed up and served with orange peel, becoming the ideal drink for frosty winter evenings. Barolo Chinato is a fantastic companion with chocolate desserts expressing its diversity as something more than a meditation wine. Barolo Chinato is best served in a long-stemmed wine glass.


To be continued…;-) so much more to come!