Back from Vacation!

Whew, just got back from a long vacation and much needed at that. Found lots of things to share so stay tuned and not all of it about cooking. ;-)

Still on Eggplant...Favorite Marinated Eggplant!

Melanzane Marinate

2 long eggplant
2 cloves of garlic
2 bay leaves
White wine vinegar
Salt
Whole black peppercorns
Olive oil for frying


Wash and dry the eggplant, cut off the ends and cut lengthwise throwing away the first lengthwise piece (all skin) and make these about 4mm in thickness. Do not skin the eggplant.
Fry in oil (do not flour the slices) and dry them on oil absorbing paper.  Once they are cold, place in a nice terrina and add the garlic cloves cut in half, the bay leaves and the peppercorns, lightly salt and cover it all with the white wine vinegar. Let rest for one night before serving. These are great as an antipasto or to accompany mixed boiled meats.  These should be consumed 3-4 days post preparation.

Parma for Eggplant Parmigiana! (No Cheese)

Thinking about a friend who the other day decided to make eggplant parmigiana, I had to go to my "bible" cookbook Emiliana and Romagnola wanting to set it straight once and for all the difference between these dishes. 
First off, the ultra famous eggplant parmigiana served in most restaurants in the US and in cookbooks as well, is actually what is called "Parmigiana di melanzane" vs what is made in Emilia Romagna called, "Melanzane alla parmigiana." The former is from Campania (Naples province) and uses heavy amounts of mozzarella. 
Another myth to be exposed is the one when preparing eggplant, was to cover the raw slices with salt. This was supposed to force the vegetable to purge the bitter water contained within. Maybe centuries ago this plant was very bitter but today the varieties we have are far from bitter and the salting actually ruins the delicate flavor of the eggplant and is harmful so, NEVER, ever salt eggplant before use.  :-)


My favorite recipe for Melanzane all parmigiana (Emiliana recipe) is the following:
2 medium eggplant
50 gram prosciutto crudo - thick slice about 1/4 inch
1 small onion
300 gr peeled tomatoes 
50 gram butter
flour
olive oil
salt pepper
Wash and dry the eggplant, but the ends off and slice into rounds.
The slices should be about 4-5 mm in thickness.
Flour them well and fry in olive oil, dry on oil absorbing paper.
In a casserole dish, melt the butter (may substitute olive oil here is desired) together with the super finely SLICED onion. When the onion is nice and transparent, add the prosciutto cut into little cubes. Sautee for two minutes and add the tomatoes.
Salt and pepper to taste and then add the eggplant slices.
Cook over a slow flame, covered for approximately fifteen minutes.

Bet you didn't know...

Did you know Italy contains 70% of the world's art? Think about that for a second, a country so small physically is so crammed full of art, monuments, churches, artifacts, tombs and on and on!! It is just amazing to me the whole concept, thinking about the number of people who passed through the country leaving such an imprint and patrimony for the rest of the world to come. No wonder Italy is so short on living space. ;-)

Meucci was the father of the telephone, not Mr. Bell; in fact Bell was well known for pirating his inventions. Marconi was the father of the radio and I bet you did not know the world's first freeway, created conceptually and physically constructed was here is this little land of dreamers and creators. Today the Italian autostrada is one of the best out there that is, if you do not judge it for the curves. With such a lack of space to build freeways, and the fact people will not sell land, the roads have to curve around history and stubbornness, so remember this when you are screaming down the road and have to back off by 50 mph to make a curve and stay alive. They have the best and world's only draining asphalt so when it rains, you can see the road; it is truly amazing (and still drive fast).

Now a quick tip on how to choose Gorgonzola, make sure the mold is not uniformly distributed. You should look for inoculation lines as well as where made. Gorgonzola originated in a small town close to Milan called, obviously, Gorgonzola. Today most of it is produced in the province of Novara and regions of Piedmont and Lombardy.  Try a risotto with Gorgonzola!

Marchesi - Pastries of Time Gone By

Marchesi is one of the oldest pastry shops in Milan where the art of bakers, the flavors, the colors and the smells meet and blend into the classic tradition menghina (of Milan also meaning a dessert or sweet). This shop began in the second half of the 1800's by Angelo Marchesi and is still situated today in one of the wonderful 1700's style palazzi.

Today the style of the early 1900's has been maintained with decorated boxed ceilings, antique furniture, and lamps with the old bar in steel and brass. One can say, today in this shop one may literally breathe an atmosphere of the 1800's, almost a Renoir painting.

They are famous for their panettone, veneziana, praline and krantz as well as, not to miss, a daily appointment for breakfast with warm sweet rolls to tempt and, cocktail hour at the bar. If you want to see the real Milanesi, hang out during these two times and one could fill pages and pages for a book on old Milan. The origins of krantz go back to when the Milanese kicked Austria out of the city, this bread is not just about risen dough, it also contains puff pastry and takes up to 17 to 24 hours to create! Tasting this for the first time in all the years here in Italy, I confess, it is and was (devoured it) the most incredible marriage of butter and candied fruit! I hate to guess how much it cost the Piglet, I gather one needs a bank loan for these breads.

Panettone is a large Italian sweetbread, which is "the" dessert for the traditional Italian Christmas lunch as well as, being the favored dessert during the festivities of the season. There are two types of panettone, the one you find in the supermarkets produced commercially and, the ones you can find at some of the old Milanese pastry shops (taking up 2-3 days to produce). Real panettone is not dry but a soft, humble bread containing sultan raisins and top quality candied fruit. There are various legends as to the origin of this cake; one being that it was created by a kitchen helper of the court of the Sforza’s. This cake had to replace the chef’s cake, which had burnt in the oven. Another story runs along the lines of this, that the falconer of Ludwig the Moor, in love with the daughter of the baker, saved the bakery from bankruptcy by selling the falcons, and buying the ingredients for the panettone. The sweetbread then became a hit with the Milanese.

It is also said to have been a dessert created from the simple, leftover ingredients in the pantry, made by a nun who then drew a cross in the top of the dough to thank God for his providence.

During our travel to this shop, it was snowing with frigid temperatures as the whole world seemed to be in line cramming the store for their Christmas breads; soft lights on the inside with steamy windows; this seemed to be an image from Hans Christian Andersen's The Little Match-Seller, only the difference here was, the images were real and these delights are created as little works of art by the Marchesi family.

These specialties (panettone, krantz etc) used to be by reservation only and in person, not by phone, but today one can slip in un-announced and partake in this glorious old Milanese tradition; I wonder how the veneziana is...the traditional cake for New Years...thinking we may have to try to do another illegal park job to get there again.
The shop is open Tues - Saturday from 7:30 to 9pm, and Sunday from 8am to 1pm.

Christmas Milanese style...

Just got in from a snowy day in Milan...have SO much to tell! Christmas breads from the oldest bakeries in town, restaurants that I thought were closed, shopping the season with the "old milan" elbow to elbow...such an amazing treat! Stay tuned.

Regional Tuscan Cooking at it's best!

During one of our lightening fast trips to Tuscany for work, we stopped in at a restaurant and locanda we had passed by in the car on numerous occasions but never had the time to stop in. This is a gem, one worth planning your trip around just to immerse yourself in an atmosphere of top notch Tuscan country living.

This is a small locale hosting rooms as well as, the restaurant and being the curious one that I am, we requested to see the rooms; such a nice surprise to find them done tastefullly and with all the amenties one might wish. Granted, it is over the autostrada and very close to the exit so if you plan on staying for a while, it might be noisy but then again, while soggiorning at Hotel Rosati, I never noticed the traffic noise and this hotel is just a few steps away. Great place for an encounter, dinner downstairs and just crawl or race to the room afterwards. Sex, languid, steamy kiss, cozy.

The decor of the dinning room is ultra classic rustic Tuscan tables, with tables out side for the hotter months. This is a wonderful place for a quick meal or for something completely sumptious, slow and satisfying. The waitresses are patient and friendly and the food is cooked to order; (grilled specialties). One of my favorites was the bruschetta done with freshly grilled/roasted tuscan bread (which as you all know is salt free not to detract from the food). If you are dinning with more than two people, order different appetizers and share, the salame, cinta senese products as well as the cinghiale are out of this world and NOT to be missed. Do not expect a wine list, when asked she trotted back with three bottles of red, all Tuscan of course, a Montepulciano Rosso, and two Brunellos and all three super reasonably priced. I just picked one, the Montepulciano red and we were super satisfied with it, a perfect marriage with the meal. Two other "not-to-miss" dishes are the fagioli al fiasco and the ceci both boiled and served piping hot in their own cooking juice and dressed with a splash of fresh pressed olive oil (yes it was November time of the olive harvests). Anything chosen from the grill is fabulous as are the pasta dishes and the deserts are all homemade (did not have room for even a glance at those).

So, next trip to Tuscany or first timers, plan a journey through Chiusi (Etruscan heaven), Sarteano (wonderful tombs to visit), Montepulciano, Perugia, Orvieto and Siena and make base camp here at the Chiusi Chianciano crossroad, (Loc. Querce al Pino) you will save a few pennies as well as find some of the best Tuscan meals to be had. Oh, and do not forget to make a stop off in Pienza at the cheese and salame shops, pick up a finocchiona and salame both made from the Cinta Senese pork...your taste buds will thank you.

La Locanda della Ribollita

Le Strette Barolo Bergeisa 2004 - Divine!

With the cold weather it is definitely time for some of those warm, meditative, ethereal red wines and last night was the first of the season for us. I decided to open a bottle of Barolo purchased over a year and a half ago while touring the wine country of Le Langhe Roero and Monferrato. The repast was risotto con porcini and that was all we needed. The wine when we tasted it at the enoteca regionale di Barolo was beyond impressive at that time (2004 vintage, considered an excellent year) and we only "stole" two bottles of the garnet liquid; how sad because it is worth stocking the cellar with this beauty. We may just have to get in the buggy next week and head over there and partake in a little white truffle (season in Le Langhe is Oct.- Dec.) and buy up, if there is any left, more of this wonderful wine. So, with candles lit for tonight (did not have the heart to finish the bottle last night) we will finish the evening with wafts of cherries, wood and fennel.

If you would like a warm and fragrant Barolo, you must try Le Strette Barolo Bergeisa 2004 as one of these reviews notes, it is truly a Barolo with all the grace and complexity one would expect from the "historical Bergeisa cru of Novello."
le strette winery
www.new canaan wine merchants

Canederli ai Finferli – Chanterelle Dumplings

Classic dumplings from the Veneto Alpine regions with rustic yellow chanterelle mushrooms gathered from the woods of these areas. Since we are in the fall season, it is a good time to make these soul-warming dumplings using ingredients gathered locally and produced in the region.

Canederli ai Finferli (Cantharellus cibarius Fr.) otherwise known in the states as, chanterelle mushrooms. Other names in Italy are gallinaccio, galletto, gialletto, finferlo o garitula. This mushroom is used in just about any way imaginable and is great preserved under vinegar or dried.

Prep time 25 min
Cook time 30 min
Difficulty: Medium

300 gr of day old or more, white bread (NOT Wonder Bread!)
80 gr of fresh mu
25 gr onion
15 gr fresh Italian parsley
1 clove garlic
3 eggs
50 gr flour
80 gr butter
80 gr Grana Padana or Parmigiano Reggiano
150 cc vegetable broth
olive oil extra virgin
salt

Finely chop the onion and blond it a tiny bit of butter. Cut the bread into cubes and pour over these the boiling hot milk and let rest for half an hour.

Meanwhile, clean the mushrooms, cut them into medium pieces and sauté in a pan with oil and a small clove of garlic that has been lightly squished for about 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and salt to taste.

Add the chanterelle mushrooms to the bread, and then add the eggs, the flour, a portion of the grated cheese and the chopped parsley. Mix well and form medium sized balls (large meatballs). Cook them in the vegetable broth for 10-15 minutes, drain and arrange them on a plate and dress with a walnut size of butter and cheese.

Normally canederli are served in broth but with the mushrooms these are better eaten alone. Regular canederli are served in boiling hot broth and dressed with cheese, the preferred dish when shushing the slopes above Trento; Madonna di Campiglio and Cortina (hell all I need is cold weather to get me in the mood for homemade broth and dumplings).

The Real One-and- Only Spaghetti alle Vongole (bianco)

For those who wish to taste the authentic spaghetti with clams, this is the one folks; a never fail (unless the quality of the clams sucks), people pleaser and impression maker.
You may use spaghetti or spaghettini depending on one’s preference. Canned clams may be used but do not expect to have that fresh seafood flavor.

You will need:

350 gr spaghetti
1 kilo of clams or 200 gr of frozen or canned clams “al natural”
1 or 2 cloves of garlic depending on size
1 bunch of Italian parsley
dash of hot pepper (chili pepper)
Olive oil extra virgin preferably Tuscan
Salt
White wine


Soak the clams in fresh water for about 1 to 2 hours, changing the water at least 3 times during this period. Divide the amount of clams into half, half you will extract the meat out of and throw the shells away, the other half you will leave steamed open with the meat inside. After steaming, strain the clam water and set aside.
Take ¼ of the clam meat extracted and finely chop it as well as half the bunch of parsley and set aside with the other ¼ clam meat un-chopped.

Using 10 tablespoons of olive oil, sauté in a large wide low pan the finely chopped garlic with the dash or more (depending on tastes although this is not a dish meant to be spicy, just a hint) of chili pepper; as soon as the garlic begins to take on a little bit of color, add ¼ to 1/2 cup of good dry white wine (not vermouth) and let evaporate a bit. Add in a cup of the clam water and boil down until it is reduced a little more.

At this point over a lively flame, add the chopped and whole clam meat and parsley and boil quickly for 30 seconds then turn off the heat. Season to taste with salt. You should have at this point a reasonably liquid mixture.

Proceed with the cooking of the pasta, when al dente or just a tad before, drain and add the pasta to the clam mix, which you will have put back on the flame just before draining the pasta. Turn up the heat and sauté the pasta in the clam mix adding at this point, the clams in their shells; toss and mix for about 1 minute or more, the pasta should soak up some of the liquid. Serve in hot bowls with a garnish of chopped parsley and never ever add cheese to this; fish dishes are never garnished with grated cheese (major faux pas). ;-)

For those of you who like red clam sauce, that recipe will follow shortly.

Secrets from Pastry Chefs “What No One Ever Tells You."

About Chocolate and flour...

Two of the most important things pastry chefs must take into consideration when using chocolate is the amount of coco butter and the percentage. Usually, most chocolates found in supermarkets range from 30 to 40% coco butter and 50 to 75% cocoa mass. The more coco butter in the chocolate the better it is for glazing making it more fluid and more valuable. Clearly the higher the cocoa content (percentage) the bitterer the chocolate will be.

If you look carefully, you will find when the cocoa percentage is high the percentage of coco butter will be high as well because inside the cocoa mass is where a high quantity of coco butter resides. Beware of chocolate not containing coco butter but other ingredients used for the fat content; it is for this reason these other types of “chocolate” do not need mixing when melting.

Flour is another secret of professional pastry chefs. Flour is rated according to the amount of gluten, which is the measure of elasticity and resistance critical for bread making. Flour in Italy is classified into four types: Tipo 00 (7% gluten, used for pastry kitchens), Tipo 0 (9% gluten, best for bread making), Tipo 1 (10% gluten) and Tipo 2 (10% gluten). However this is not enough to understand flour and gluten, one must verify that the gluten quantity is coupled with it’s good qualities; the qualities given by the mills to the flour.
These three indices represent the characteristics of the various flours, these are: W, G and P. W represents the energy absorbed in the deformation expressed in thousands of erg/g of kneaded flour. G indicates the capacity of the flour to swell thereby trapping air. P indicates the maximum resistance against the deformation and is an index of the tenacity of the dough.

The knowledge of these indices gives the flour its bread quality. For example, good bread flour would be as follows: W from 110 to 150 G from 16 to 18 P from 40 to 50
Pastry flour on the contrary, should be as follows: W from 200 a 250 best for cookies W above 400 is best for long fermentation pastries such as panettoni.

Flour should be stable and in equilibrium, meaning all three indices must fall within the average predicted values for the use of that particular flour. In the United States, when buying flour in the stores these values are not listed (although at times some percentages of protein are listed) and sometimes there is not a choice between flour and pastry flour. Over here in Italy, it certainly is fun when you have a friend in the pastry business willing to share some of the ingredients. ;-)

The Crisis of our Currency, the American Dollar.

The national debt has grown every single year since 1958. and it will equal the entire GDP some time in 2010. Call it a tipping point, call it decline, call it whatever one wants; it is a crisis of epic proportions.

Unfortunately, our nation's leaders are either oblivious, in which case they are fools, or they are powerless and cannot even save their own land, or they do not care, in which case they are not "leaders" at all. Instead, they are charlatans, pretending to embody the national interest but only driving the nation into a huge abyss.

Neither party has produced a plan to deal with this emergency, although the warning signs have been abundant for over a decade. And without a demonstrable will to boldly act, nations overseas will continue to make their own plans.

We now have global economies, not just the eastern block and the US and it is right to have these economies affecting us but the problem is, we are not evolving with our policies regarding spending and the inflation of the currency; America has just lost everything it has built, the stability and strength of it's monetary position. The dollar is involved with transactions the world over and when the Fed, Treasury, and Congress inflate the currency and expand our debt obligations the way they are, foreign nations know eventually their dollar holdings will be much less valuable. Combined, this includes trillions of dollars of reserves, treasuries, corporate bonds, and securities, and they will obviously want to dump them.

Who could blame them? We make bad decisions and then, in essence, ask foreign powers (who are often hostile) to pay for these decisions. So, what do we do? Do we steer the ship of state out of turbulent waters? No, we have continued to steer it toward the deep beyond, which means the run on the dollar is close at hand, perhaps even inevitable. Fear in our ability to pay back our debts will encourage that run where the capability and willingness by our nation's leaders could prevent it.

Since nothing has yet changed, (especially since the Wall St. & Bank crisis) the best Americans can do is stock up on gold and perhaps, canned goods and hold on tight because it is going to get worse.

Latte Portoghese with Farm Fresh Eggs (a must)!

Every time I see my favorite "gal," the Bruna Alpina I think of this recipe...

This is a time tested recipe handed down from my Tuscan family ties, a nice and simple variation on custard. I remember this one well because the eggs were always so fresh and the yolks ultra yellow; I can smell it cooking now! Make sure you use an organic orange, wash well.

1 Liter whole milk 5 eggs ultra fresh 10 Tablespoons sugar (baker's sugar or ultra fine sugar) Orange rind Gran Marnier
Boil gently for 20 minutes milk with 5 spoons of sugar and orange peel. Do not let boil over. Cool well.

While cooling, prepare the caramel coating in the molds by placing 4 or 5 tablespoons (depending on the size of the mold) in the bottom with a tablespoon of water. Heat over high heat until the mix melts and bubbles and then continue heating until it begins to color. Take the color (burning if you will) to the point you prefer, which means lighter in flavor or the darker it becomes the heavier the flavor.
Mix 5 tablespoons sugar (or less depending on how sweet you wish this to be) with yolks and Gran Marnier ("season to taste" with this), beat well then add the cooled milk. Lightly beat the whites to mix and add to yolks.
Bake in oven with a pan of water for about 40 – 50 minutes medium oven.

Discovered Fun Italian Travel and Food Blog

Found a fun and very informative blog for those of you hooked on Italy. She does a lot of hiking and has her posts organized by region, not to mention her recipes as well. This is one of the most thorough sites I have seen, go check it out.
Rubber Slippers in Italy

The Real One and Only Tomato Sauce

After spending years in this crazy Italian land, having tasted a genuine home made tomato sauce for pasta, I realized someone needs to clue in those folks on the other side of the "pond" to the exquisite flavors of real tomato sauce. I have found it difficult to find a restaurant serving good "pasta al pomodoro" state-side. The main trick to good sauce is in the tomato so when you can find good Perini, use these!

Heat ¾ cup extra virgin olive oil and in it cook 2 medium onions, sliced, until they are soft and transparent. Add 1 small grated carrot, 1 minced clove of garlic, and 1 teaspoon of minced parsley.

Cook together slowly for 3 minutes, then add 2 pounds of fresh tomatoes, coarsely chopped, salt and pepper, a few celery leaves chopped and several leaves of fresh basil, 1/3 teaspoon dried thyme and ½ cup of meat stock. Simmer the sauce, covered for about 1 and ¼ hours; stir it from time to time.

When it is fairly thick, force it through a fine strainer. This sauce may be used with any dish calling for tomato sauce although best when tossed over pasta. Serves 4-6