English translation belowCi eravamo proposti di parlare solamente di ristoranti dove fare delle vere e proprie esperienze eno-gastronomiche, quindi di parlare solamente di esperienze positive; bene, è il momento di contraddirci subito! :-)
Ricordandomi di un ottimo pranzo presso il ristorante Hostaria La Speranza di Solcio in provincia di Novara sul Lago Maggiore cui partecipai una decina di anni fa, e visto che il nostro peregrinare per il nord Italia ci ha portato nei pressi di detto ristorante, approfittai dell'ora di cena ormai superata da un po, per proporre a Snow White una sosta "tecnica" presso l'Hostaria. Questo ristorante qualche anno fa, godeva di una discreta fama per gli antipasti alla piemontese che serviva e per una discreta cantina.
Vi confesso che non ho faticato molto a convincere Snow White a rifocillarsi con un po di antipasti misti e con del buon vino... ma ahimè, temo di avere perso qualche punto nei suoi confronti quella sera!
Dunque, il locale è molto ben arredato, finemente e in maniera ricercata. Bene, si trattava di vedere se oltre alla forma, la "sostanza" era migliorata o almeno era rimasta quella di qualche anno fa. Le cameriere sono giovani e cortesi, ma assolutamente non professionali; danno proprio l'impressione di avere imparato a memoria tutto quello che dicono, ma senza sapere di cosa stanno parlando. Gli antipasti sono solo discreti, nulla di eccezionale e per di più in numero assolutamente inadeguato: una volta da loro si mangiavano solo quelli, ora invece ci si alza da tavola con più fame di prima.
La sorpresa però non è il cibo. Appena ordinata la cena, la padrona del locale, si avvicina al tavolo e butta li la frase innocente: "Vi porto un po' di vino?" Ma come, sarò anche un Piglet, ma non del tipo che ha pensato la ristoratrice! Alla mia richiesta di poter guardare la Carta dei Vini, la signora in questione, è sparita ed ha mandato una camerierina a presentarci detta carta. Ad una prima occhiata ho pensato si trattasse della versione con i prezzi espressi in Rupie e non in Euro, ma ad un più attento esame, il simbolo dell'Euro era riportato in molte parti, e della valuta indiana non c'era traccia... I vini avevano prezzi assolutamente demenziali: quello che costava meno era proposto a 120 Euro la bottiglia (roba che si paga 25 Euro massimo in qualunque altro ristorante, quello che costava di più era un Franciacorta Brut per il quale chiedevano 1,290 Euro!!! Dopo avere rifiutato di farmi depredare, la camerierina arrossendo ha annuito accennando a voce bassa un: "già, capisco..."
Mentre con Snow White mi stavo ancora chiedendo in che razza di posto eravamo capitati, la padrona si avvicina e con la faccia di chi vuole fare la generosa con dei poveracci, ci dice: "Se volete posso offrirvi un bicchiere di vino". E' stato solo un piccolo calcio ricevuto da Snow White sotto il tavolo per fermarmi ed evitare di dicessi alla tizia cosa poteva farsene del suo vino e dove poteva metterselo! (Grazie Snow White!)
Morale: pagato il conto salato, cenato male e senza vino, presi in giro ed insultati.
La Speranza - Hold on Tight to your Wallet!I know we had promised to only discuss good wine and dinning experiences, speaking only of positive experiences at that but the time has quickly come to veer away from that promise if only briefly.
Remembering a superb lunch at a place called Hostaria La Speranza situated in Solcio on Lago Maggiore about ten years ago, and seeing as how our pilgrimage in northern Italy took us near to this still-functioning “joint,” I decided to take advantage of the fact that we were late with our dinner decision so I proposed a little “technical” stop to Snow White. The restaurant a few years ago carried a discrete fame for its antipasti alla Piemontese, which they served along with a robust cellar to accompany the feast. I must admit, I had no difficulty whatsoever convincing Snow White to take refreshment (with the promise of some mixed antipasti and good wine…) but alas, I fear I lost a few points in her eyes that evening!
Let’s see, the locale was very nicely decorated, done with taste and maintaining a certain time period for style with well-chosen pieces and accessories. “Great” I thought to myself, besides excellent presentation and ambiance it was time to see if the substance had improved or at least, remained that of a few years ago. The waitresses were all dressed in uniforms of an era gone-by, all were very young, courteous but completely unprofessional; they gave the impression they were speaking from a script not having a clue what they were really saying.
The antipasti were only discrete, nothing exceptional and furthermore, the number of different types of these minuscule tastes was totally out of line; it was almost like a Sunday Brunch smorgasbord, lots of stuff but nothing great or too much and unable to appreciate any of it. Once upon a time in this “joint,” one could eat just those now, one leaves the table hungrier than prior to being seated.
The surprise however was not the food. As soon as dinner was ordered the owner of the “joint” (big female chowhound herself) approaches the table in her apron and in a little innocent voice, tosses the wine question: “Shall I bring you some wine?” “What, are you kidding?” I say to myself. I may be a chowhound too but not the kind she thought I was. Upon my request to bring me the wine list, this questionable female disappeared and sent one of the girls with the list to the table. At first glance, I thought to myself this must be the version with prices in Rupees and not Euros, but upon closer examination, I saw the Euro symbol here and there finding not a trace of the Indian currency.
The wine prices were insane!!!! The least expensive wine was a bottle for 120 Euros (stuff one would pay 25 Euros max in any other restaurant) and then there was a bottle of Franciacorta Brut (mind you just Brut, not a bottle of non dosato) to the tune of 1,290 Euro!! After refusing to be pillaged, the waitress blushed and knowingly acknowledged in a low voice “ah yes, of course…” While Snow White was still asking me what kind of racket for a restaurant I had brought her to, the big female chowhound approached us and had the brazen nuts to play Ms. Generous and offer us wine by the glass. It was only a tiny whack in the ankle that Snow White launched in my direction to help prevent me from telling that creature what and where she could put that glass of wine (Thank you Snow White)! Then after paying the horrendous bill for not eating, the little waitress comes back and sheepishly offers us a glass of grappa, on the house. Good God, I refused that as well; was not going to put myself at her mercy, no way!
Moral: paid the sticky bill, ate poorly without wine, was insulted and had my leg pulled from here to Timbuktu…you do the math.
pt Baden-Baden and Munich. One would think that a big city such as Dusseldorf would be full of fun restaurants and places serving dinner past 7:30pm; not! Getting dinner in “on time” or better said, German-time was a serious issue, had it not been for the gallery-type malls with food courts, starvation was the name of the game. Yes, there were numerous street cafes but not for a serious meal and if you tried for one of those it was always Italian food. Around 5 pm one could always find people stuffing down large ice cream dishes and after taking in the scenery, one realizes there is a love affair extraordinaire with Italian food but German style of course (so do not expect exceptional Italian fare).
reasonable stop; the first good meal they had of German fare. Munich was still the easy and friendly town that she remembered except there were five times more the number of tourists than 30 years ago. The shopping is much better than in Dusseldorf, the food is fabulous and the eateries are fun, busy and friendly. Hum, go figure Munich is considered by many as that “southern town” full of “southerners!”
as a stop in the artisans barn where a multitude of shops are combined under one roof was on their plan that day. Here one can find great crystal and glass and fabulous carved winter scenes for Christmas. I hope we can make a trip back to this spot during the winter.
ense of welcome, the feeling one might have in their own living room and an ease with which one may move in the city. The streets are direct yet every angle, every corner has something to be uncovered and discovered. The history is multilayered with remnants from Roman, Gothic, Baroque Renaissance and Neoclassical eras all within comfortable reach of the ordinary person.
tice. The Piccolomini palace/museum is a stop worth doing and I suggest (strongly), the museum store! The store has books in various languages and has a lovely refined presentation and ambiance as well as fabulous gifts in the offerings. The store is quite unlike Italy; in that it is so nicely presented and lighted…hum maybe foreigners are behind it. ;-)) I could imagine how great it would be to cycle Pienza and the surrounding area, stopping to taste cheese at the numerous farms alongside the roads, to picnic and wine taste (hum, on bikes)? Then again, a driver would be great too so the wine tasting could occur in full force…giggle ;-)) A dopo!
out at “the Swiss” suisse and compare it to their favorite bar tender’s special. The drink was good, served in smaller wine glasses but it just did not have the flavor of the other; must be the type of Prosecco used. So, on their last day before reentry, they had their farewell Spritz and will not have another until they return to that area (would hate to ruin a great memory)! Looks like they will be making plans to had back there real soon, the withdrawals are terrible.
ath places to eat. This was a find of monumental proportions and anyone who can or is able, head to Domodossola for a fabulous meal. They specialize in fish courses but also propose perfect Spanish fare. This is of course family-owned and operated, which means the clan of ultra dedicated and proud owners will serve you. Situated close to the Swiss border this town boasts a lively atmosphere. There is a fun Jazz Club hidden off of the main street, nicely frescoed palazzini all framed with the majestic mo
untains of the Val Dossola. The family recently restored an old building from the very early 1700’s into a casa-vacanza in the locale of Cadarese, the Valley of Antigorio. The area will soon host thermal baths as well as sport complexes and recreational activities summer and winter.
20€ per plate. Many of the risotto fish dishes or paella must be ordered for a minimum of two bodies, which would tell any food fanatic your dishes are prepared to order! They do not have precooked this or that. Saturday is their busiest day at lunch and trust me, the tables turned not twice but three times during the lunching hour. The place is small; the tables are barren, wooden and simple. As a restaurant classification one might expect tablecloths or linen napkins; probably for dinner they set up in that manner as in the photos on the website, but for lunch it was nice and bare and simple. They put out paper placemats, a knife and fork serving the wine in big generous glasses and that is it folks. A very simple but stunningly divine repast. La Meridiana
vine and only four of these things on the plate, a perfect, perfect amount of food! While taking this meal in a very slow manner (due to the number of patrons in the place), she was able to spy other dishes whizzing by the table and most of them made her realize, this is going to have to be a regular watering hole for them and begin their exploration of the fabulous fish fare proffered.
ur budget, then go in for a glass of wine at the bar and a slice or two of prosciutto, this is truly a hidden gem and with a little bit of time to spare, Snow White will translate the story of the cooks and family from their brochure, another impressive story (they boast fantastic chef training).
at the prices they charge, you really should camp in for a while. When we asked for the bill she thought his face was going to fall off; 14,50 Euros for all that fanfare! We laughed while walking to the car and talked about how things have changed over the years (like the prices) knowing that a trip back there would have to be standing at the bar and even then, maybe not for a little while (gotta save up our pennies).
e castle, if one parks below it can be a wicked challenge on the rounded rock road as well as, taking the path towards the entrance and the uneven floors and steps once inside. This place was meant for climbing and sensible shoes plus, getting to the bathroom or better said, navigating the steps to the bathroom after a few glasses of wine can be an issue, especially when you really need to go. ;-)
other hill town were mesmerizing and suggestive, music floated up from the tent party near the hotel, laughter and the clink of glasses while toasting; all elements adding to the ambience rendering the experience even more suggestive for a creative mind. The past oozed around us with the pride of the people of the town for the place they live and for the traditions they protect. Romance, romantic dinning, sensuous, warm, sexy, suggestive, hot, steamy, languid, escorts, red roses, venetian mask, antiquity
